I am looking forward to seeing what it looks like. I like the tracks.

great thing about these tracks over lynxmotion tracks besides what i said before ,easy to make tank tracks using the included bogie wheels instead of having a flat track system you can adjust the front of the tracks up a little to make climb on to carpet from floors thats what i am adding to mine ,10'' by 11'' frame fits perfect on the bottom and the tracks fit inside the large holes for the old omnibot wheels,with very little cutting and filing i am using a 4 wheel drive system with each motor has a clutch JUST about ready for PHOTOS

I'm a big fan of treads and look forward to seeing omnibot cruising around on them. Our tank base arrived today and after some modifications , Bob zooms easily between the floor boards and carpet. These 1/16 scale tanks have 2 speeds and really pack some power easily pushing around Bobs 1.6 Kilos of tin, wires and plastic.

when i had mine on my vex robotics design was able to carry over 70 lb (31.8 kilo's) tanks make great bases for small robots ,hope to your's too

Looking forward to seeing this tank drive. Thinking about getting one from VEX.

will post photos of it on the omnibot

also as you can see the green tracks has grooves in it for carpet or rugs and the gray tracks has a flat surface for floors will put up a parts lists of all the parts,with part #

yes...yes...parts list please

Looks Great!

When you have time could you tell me what are the overall dimensions of this chassis? L x W x H

Thanks,

Rex

10 by 11 inches ,

                       PARTS LIST

1-chassis 276-1033 need to cut it down some for 10 by 11 inches 4- 2 wire motors 276-2177 unless you only need 30 lb of load you need 2 of them 1-track threads kit 276-2168 1 track upgrade kit 276-2214 dont need it unless using it for floors too 1- bearing flat 276-1209 10 pack ,need 8 of them 2- clutch 276-1098 3 to a pack need 4 1-drive shaft 276-1049 cut to length for all motors 1-shaft collar 276-2010 1-bearing pop rivits 276-2215

will be adding fenders latter also not mounted yet ,need a little trimming and filing but it gives you more room in the base as you can see tracks can be removed and vex wheels can be added very easy

almost forgot the ling to get the parts vex robotics parts

OK, Fred. That is nice. How much did that set you back and where can we buy one.

Thanks,

Mel

P.S. forgot, your girlfriend gave it to you. But, you probably know how much it is worth.

Hey, what about putting a Omni2000 on top of a Roomba and just hook up the motors on the bottom and directly control them. That would probably work, don't you think? You would only need a saber-tooth controller or H-bridge. Good Work!!

Mel

not really too much work ,wont look good my girlfriend did not give it too me,it was the BROOKSTONE ROVER robot i got from her

also how to hook up motors ,there are 2 ways for a 4 motor drive system ,one is hook up the left motors in parallel ,you need a 10 amp h-bridge

second is a lot harder and not needed indoors,but it takes 4 h-bridges 5 amps each and 4 optical feedback encoders,mostly to for driving the front wheels slower then the back wheels ,to pull the robot out of a ditch ,used outside working on this design for a much bigger robot design

latter on will add 2 encoders ,to tell distance traveled,speed ,if direction forward or backward and for navigation

that's right. My brain is a little goofy.

You tried the Omni-bot on it and it did not look good. Well, it was a thought, I guess.

Mel

also MEL you dont get much traction from a roomba,thats why tracks are used but i did buy another set of tracks for the roomba project to add to it

Thank You, Fred for the info.

Hey Fred! did you hear the news about QBO. They have come up with a Qbo Pro EVO now. The kit price is 799 Euros and the EVO models are much higher. They are sold out of the regular QBOs at this time. I still have my order in. But, get this. They found out that in the regular QBO with the Hi-Tech servos, the servos made noise. It was not able to be heard by human ears. But, it messed with the microphones for the navigation. So, they did what most people do these days, they went to the AX-12 servos. Well, that increased the price because they had to modify the chassis to accept AX-12 servos. They added a thousand Euros to the price and included a Kinect type device. This was bad news for me, because I will have another robot running into things. :-( The Qbo, however , will be much better. But, you can buy a NAO for the same price. Too late for me, I have already given them a $700 non-refundable deposit. I hope that they have options to add the AX-12 for a very reasonable price, else, I am sunk.

They will be shipping yours in a couple of months.

What do you think about that?

Freddy...

We need some more pics. Looking good. I love those tracks.

Samantha

sam pictures of what,more of tracks design my next step is drill a few holes,trim a little,file and sand after that make a deck for my ITX board and leaf microcontrolller board

I'd actually like to see close up of the inside and what you are doing in there. Maybe that will come as the project progresses.

What kind of carpet do you have , I would love to see video of the tracks running on carpet fully weighted down. As you say you test everything , let's see a video!

dont have carpet now ,got rid of it,check the specs and info on the motors and specs for tracks dont have a video camera

Come on man , you have a cell phone and they all have cameras. Specs are rarely truthful or real world.

my cell phone only has a camera,not video,never had a need for video camera,they are useless and specs are really good,i deal with specs at my work alot, check to see why tanks and others use tracks,also very simple to see that tracks with grooves grab better then ones with out,same with flat tracks too, hope you soon you will make more robots,then you will get a feel for designs will be putting up more photos

design flaws on the omnibot and how to fix them i dont know if anyone seen the flimsy plastic on the omnibot,since it is a toy and not made for heavy loads easy simple very strong fix is to use light weight aluminium angle on bottom or sides i know JOSH like using fiberglass to make his stronger,but about the same weight,no mess,plus super easy to use aluminium plus cheaper is thin light weight angles (not flat) angle is a lot stronger second easy to mount circuit boards,motors,servo's and lot more will be posting photo's soon of my aluminium on my omnibot 2001 project ,and if needed can show photos of the weight it can handle without any sags, some need proof instead of just concept can post photo's if needed

Fred, that is a good idea!

AND josh you said you need a video,have you ever use vex robotics tracks with upgrade without trying it fisrt cant almost say it may not work

i took them off my vex robot i made for the outside,there worked great on roads and over rocks carrying a large load,when i asked the engineers at vex robotics about the upgrade before i bought them they said they work a lot better with them,i had 60 lbs testing and climb the rocks no problem and same with flat surfaces if you look at the lynxmotion tracks and compare to vex robotics tracks they are the same but no upgrade

so i think this will be a better idea on your omnibot project and a lot less work and time and so much easy to make and add to your JARVIS

My challenge is I have carpet but.I.will still.consider tracks , I need to get the rest of my list done though lol

have small carpets in my rooms mostly on the 3 sides of my bed,bathroom,kitchen,and living room and robot room,yes my robots has its own room LOL your wheels may or may not work on you carpet,but if going from wooden or tile floor to carpet might have a problem

well did more work on my omnibot project and ordered a lot of parts,will be posting photos up tonight and more to come name i think for it will be the 6 MILLON DOLLAR OMNIBOT ,since will be named after the movie and might cost that much tooo

photo of the tracks mounted,also area around the tracks will be filled in

this is one of the photos of my aluminium angle,and attached to will be 2 decks one to hold my itx computer and another to hold my boards,easy to make and mount very light and makes it easy to mount boards and other stuff,second to make it even lighter the angle aluminium frame with have rivets and pins,on top will have small sheet of plastic to mount my boards,hard drive,itx boards nd mybe power strip will have more photos up of my design

looks like i need to add a 3 inch riser in the second section where the tape deck is stress

Why? Post pictures

need for my computer little high when i have batteries at the bottom,with the 2 batteries 6 volts 20 amp each so 12 volts at 20 amps they fit perfect,just about 2 inches just room for my leaf board,unless i use one of my mini leaf boards i am making ,so with the mother board on top of the top lid not much room just about 1 1/2 inch then then omnibot gets smaller,so adding 3 inches height to it,plus need the extra 3 inches for other stuff in that area ,like my display the leaf board where i placed is perfect ,encoders ,h-bridge,most sensors,plus power then on top cover placing mother board and EZB ,SSD and display and more

when i finish the aluminium frame,that does both hold the batteries in place and same time my LEAF microcontroller board,it has gyro and accel,plus can add a compass,all software and codes already made,will POST PHOTOS WHEN FRAME IS DONE also better to have the mother board on top,more breathing space,less heat

How do you plan on doing your riser?

with angle aluminium frame and plastic sheet for deck,so it very light,strong easy to mount parts and boards and makes it a little more professional too

update on my progess on my omnibot project going home from my work trip sunday,and at home my girlfriend got many boxes that came in for my robots so on the RISER i am using polypropylene plastic,one reason lighter then most plastics,cheaper then any plastic ,easy to machine and very strong,to paint it use krylon fusion works very good for glue use WELD-ON #1829 ,one of the 2 glue's that will bond it,another is heat,but very high heat another is screws will be posting photos and part #'s and where to buy it also doing the same for my fenders around the track base

SFOY how did you make the riser for JOSH omnibot project,it looks good this week will have more photos of my design

Thank you. I pretty much did the same thing. I use acrylic plastic, use the liquid solvent (see pic) to weld the two pieces together.

I use the heat gun to heat up the ends to bend to the right shape. I then put it in between the slates on my coffee table to bend.

type of acrylic glue i use is one of the best WELD-ON #4, this company makes so many different types of glue's ,thats mostly all they make,on shaping i made a bending jig but also i am using a different type of plastic ,not acrylic acrylic is very brittle it cracks to easy,even with fiberglass added to it and the glue is WELD-ON #1829

You asked so I told you.

just curious how you did it,and i am looking at at forming the bends with heat,so only 1 side needs glue and will be much stronger ,instead of 4 sides all having it glued i thought you did it that way pretty easy to do,only where the bend is you take a dremel tool cut a small groove in the plastic at very little depth on the inside of the riser,it makes it very easy to form with heat,this is what the factory does,then you can still add a little bead of glue on the inside if you want for double strength metal bender is the best for bending sheet metal and plastics

another small trick i got from work is to use parchment paper where the heat goes,so no heat marks are made on the plastic,doesnt happen with all plastics ,but it does work great and perfect every time,its also i use alot when baking too

lights came in for my omnibot eyes,blue led with a screw in socket,just remove the factory bulb and put in a blue led ,low cost ,it has high output

blue screw in led light

How's the bot coming?

Hey Fred , I wanna see some of these designs you have been bragging about =) progress pics?

Me too!

problem is DJ SAID NO.if does have anything to do with EZB i cant post it

will post my omnibot design as i get it done

Let's be honest, Fred. He did not say that.

I was looking at the pictures of the tracks and noticed that the footprint is much smaller than original. Will this pose a stability problem when starting and stopping? Is there a way to get a larger footprint?

reason i use little smaller tracks is so i can add sensors and encoders on the fenders ,i am adding 2 large batteries will be in the center to keep it stable,second the track frame can be longer the frame parts you need to cut them down to size you want and same with the tracks you add or remove tracks to size you need,i found it holds up to 140 lbs ,35 lbs per motor ,times 4 motors hope this monday to form the riser and work on the fenders too

So the large end wheels cant be adjusted lower and still have the sensors and encoders? Similar to Wall-E in look.

yes,,but dont go to far to the ground ,you need ground clearance if you look at the metal frame it has other holes to mount the track wheels ,and the idler wheeels you see i have 2 of you can remove them and still the belt will be tight many ways to set the tracks,that one of the reasons i like it over LYNXMOTION tracks only reason i have lynxmotion tracks is on my johnny five robot because the frame looks like johnny tracks other reason is higher torque motors,encoders i am using are small pot type ,i think its optical design,but soon making a circuit that makes magnetic encoders have a digital output like optical encoders.it takes a few chips and havent seen any circuit on the web that can do it

hope to have some photos up on my progress made it so the mid section comes off easy ,where all the boards are and sevo's mounted to frame without removing the bottom first

I like the track info you have provided. I have an old VEZplorer that I upgraded with the tread kit. I am hoping to convert the whole thing over to EZ-B and servos. It will be interesting to see how these older VEX tracks hold out. Any ideas on the original drive motor replacements?

Looking forward to the rest of your progress reports.

vex robotics has high torque upgrade motor, the vexplorer you have is the frame i used on mine,motors take a standard H-BRIDGE or can convert to servo rc

How's the progress?

stop for a week for my dolphin and zoo trip,get back oct 3 to start on building the frame will post photos

well pretty soon will have time for all my robot projects my good news is going to fully retire,since i sold a big electronic patent design to a company and will be working on my omnibot 2000 project and many more with EZB and some with AI software design

So any progress on the omnibot 2000. If you arent doing anything with the omnibot 2000 arms I would love to buy them...

yes using the arms,i just got back from my trip,and looking to work on the aluminium frame making it so ,its very easy to remove the panels for upgrades or repairs,like the way HEATHKIT HERO is made,plus bought 2 more robots ,one is sony AIBO that sells for $2500 AND OTHER KINDA LIKE HIM will post photos in a few days

i have the arm gear box done for both arms ,next is to make a aluminium frame to mount them next is hands and elbow,design kinda close to the terminator,but using a plastic skin wrap around a aluminium body,each of the plastic panels will be easy to remove and all electronics and sensors will be attached to the aluminium frame will post photos in a few days

Can't wait!

arms can lift over 200 lb each ,but using much much less,need add a gear box for the feedback pot bearings fit pefect in shoulder

here is photos of my arm design

started making the frame ,i cut the peices ,now as soon as i get my machine shop tools in ,can finish it mostly waiting on my belt sander to come in tuesday,rest of the 16 other machine tools comming in before christmas,my milling machine came in last friday

so hope to post photos before the weekend

update on my omnibot progress,i got my table belt sander in and my grinder in today a lot early then they said so first thing tuesday morning will sand down my plastic peices and my aluminium angle for my body arm frame ,and use rivets and tap holes for some screws should be able to post PHOTOS wednesday the motors above are mounted to the frame looking not to mount any sensors ,lcd or boards to the omnibot plastic shell ,instead mount to my aluminium frames,this way the covers come off super easy for quick repairs or adjustments

I was looking at your parts list for the tread base that you made for your Omnubot 2000 and the pictures. Where did you get the 4 large plastic spacers that hold the center base to the tread structure? There are two in the front and two in the back. They are not listed in your parts list.

i guess you meen the arm gear box,that white spacer is a gear for my feedback pot 1-1 ratio i did change it it use a little bigger gear,since they are ony the size i had at the time.

it will have a plate on the top of the gear box and the pot mounted off to the side of the gear box

or the tracks design using the green rollers,they come with the TRACK TREAD kit it uses 2 rollers on both side,from vex robotics part # for tread tracks is 276-2168.

looking to get back to workng on the design,also making a lynxmotion johnny five project i need to try to get most of it done first,but while waiting for parts i work on this project too.

getting for a update of my aluminium box to hold my arm gear box on

These shoulder motors look really good! How fast do they move 90 degrees?

(fyi mean not meen. Not a word.)

NOT shore yet havent tested them for arms you dont need a fast motor unless he is throwing a baseball

but is using a 10 rpm motor and gear box is 30-1 ,so its .333 rpm and at 750 oz stall torque at 30-1 is 22500 oz then divide by 16 oz its 1406 lbs its stall torque,i can easy change it for a faster motor with faster speed and lower torque the sell many if the speed doesnt work good .

WHAT great about using this design then a servo gear box it hold the arm at any position and uses so much less in current stall current is 1 amp,cant find that on the best high torque servo its mostly 3 amps stall or more

I was talking about the track design. If you look at the front view, you have the middle steel structure, than a gray plastic piece (looks like an inch or so wide), then the tread with steel beam and the rollers. I circled the parts in yellow in the picture.

oh.they came with the vex robotics kit they dont sell any more,they have other metal pieces that can take the place of it,under frame parts

its like this one they sell and in many sizes

If you do a search on ebay for vexplorer you can get the one i have for near $60 complete only need to change the wheels to a track design or make one using the parts in my parts list only it wont have the plastic corner pieces.

but just extend the cross piece out it more to connect to the other cross beam also the sell corner gussets ,that might work too

They dont make the vexplorer design any more

I would like a gear arrangement like that if I could get 90 degrees in about 1 second. That would work for me since I'm not really lifting anything but its own arms. I know you have plans to do more with yours. (sure not shore)

check the precision motors they have at servocity,many types of RPM output

wont be able to post any updates,since going on my last trip for work till end of march ,after will have full time to work on my robot projects

BE comming home in a few days and will be adding photos as i make more changes to my design.

Looking to have more photos up monday,so stay tuned