Hello Nomad_6R,

The length of the Bowden tube in a 3D printer can indeed have an impact on print quality and performance. Here are a few points to consider:

1. Tube Length and Flexibility: A longer Bowden tube can introduce more flexibility and potential for filament compression, which can affect the precision of filament extrusion. This can lead to issues like under-extrusion or over-extrusion.

2. Friction: The longer the Bowden tube, the more friction the filament encounters as it travels from the extruder to the hotend. This can cause increased resistance, making it harder for the extruder to push the filament through, potentially leading to clogs.

3. Material Type: Different filament materials have different levels of flexibility and friction. For example, flexible filaments like TPU can be more challenging to print with a Bowden setup due to their tendency to compress and buckle.

Given that your nozzle clogs up after an hour of printing, here are a few troubleshooting steps you can take:

1. Check Filament Quality: Ensure that your filament is of good quality and has been stored properly to avoid moisture absorption, which can cause clogs.

2. Temperature Settings: Verify that you are using the correct temperature settings for your filament. Printing at too low a temperature can cause clogs, while too high a temperature can cause filament degradation.

3. Extruder Tension: Check the tension on your extruder. If it's too tight, it can grind the filament, causing particles to clog the nozzle. If it's too loose, it may not push the filament effectively.

4. Clean the Nozzle: Even new nozzles can sometimes have manufacturing residues. Make sure to clean the nozzle thoroughly before use.

5. Retraction Settings: Adjust your retraction settings. Excessive retraction can pull molten filament into the cooler part of the hotend, causing clogs.

6. Cooling: Ensure that your hotend cooling fan is working properly. Overheating can cause filament to soften and clog the nozzle.

If you continue to experience issues, you might want to consider reaching out to the support community for your specific 3D printer model or checking for any firmware updates that might address extrusion issues.

For more detailed guidance on 3D printing and troubleshooting, you can visit the Synthiam support page: Synthiam Support.

If you have any further questions or need additional assistance, feel free to ask!

@athena

i see somthing that looks like some kinda grease in the hotend . what can this be ?

Hello Nomad_6R,

The presence of a grease-like substance in your hotend is unusual and could be indicative of a few potential issues:

1. Filament Contamination: Some filaments may have additives or contaminants that can leave a residue when heated. This is more common with lower-quality filaments. Ensure you are using high-quality filament from a reputable source.

2. Lubricant Residue: If you have recently assembled or serviced your hotend, there might be residual lubricant from the assembly process. Some hotends use a small amount of thermal paste or grease to improve heat transfer between components, but this should not be in the filament path.

3. Degraded Filament: Filament that has absorbed moisture or has been exposed to high temperatures for extended periods can degrade and leave a sticky residue. This is especially true for filaments like PLA, which can degrade into a sticky substance when overheated.

4. Incorrect Cleaning Agents: If you have used any cleaning agents or solvents to clean your hotend, ensure they are appropriate for use with your specific hotend materials. Some solvents can leave residues that may look like grease.

Steps to Address the Issue:

1. Clean the Hotend: Disassemble the hotend and clean it thoroughly. Use a suitable solvent like isopropyl alcohol to remove any residues. Ensure all components are dry before reassembly.

2. Check Filament Quality: Switch to a high-quality filament and ensure it is stored properly in a dry environment. Consider using a filament dryer if you suspect moisture contamination.

3. Inspect for Leaks: Check for any leaks in the hotend assembly. Sometimes, melted filament can leak from the threads or joints if not properly sealed.

4. Reassemble Carefully: When reassembling the hotend, ensure all parts are correctly aligned and tightened. Avoid using excessive amounts of thermal paste or grease, and ensure none of it gets into the filament path.

5. Run a Test Print: After cleaning and reassembling, run a test print to see if the issue persists. Monitor the print closely to ensure there are no further clogs or residues.

If the problem continues, you might want to consult the manufacturer's support documentation or community forums for your specific 3D printer model. They may have additional insights or recommendations for dealing with this issue.

For more detailed guidance on 3D printing and troubleshooting, you can visit the Synthiam support page: Synthiam Support.

If you have any further questions or need additional assistance, feel free to ask!

@athena

the hot end complete is about 2 months old . also all fans are about 2 months old . i use only esun+ as filament stored dry wiht moist bags in the boxes . can vapor of 3dlac be a problem ?

Hello Nomad_6R,Given that your hotend and fans are relatively new and you are using high-quality filament stored properly,it's less likely that the filament or hardware is the primary issue.However,3DLAC or other adhesive sprays used on the print bed can indeed cause problems if their vapors or residues come into contact with the hotend or filament path.### Potential Issues with 3DLAC Vapors:1.Residue Build-Up:3DLAC can leave a sticky residue if it comes into contact with the hotend or filament path.This residue can cause clogs and affect print quality.2.Contamination:If the vapors from 3DLAC are significant,they can contaminate the filament or the hotend,leading to the grease-like substance you observed.### Steps to Mitigate the Issue:1.Avoid Over-Spraying:When applying 3DLAC to the print bed,ensure you are not over-spraying and that the spray is confined to the bed area.2.Ventilation:Ensure your printing area is well-ventilated to disperse any vapors from 3DLAC and prevent them from settling on the hotend or filament.3.Clean the Hotend:Disassemble and clean the hotend thoroughly to remove any potential residues from 3DLAC or other contaminants.Use isopropyl alcohol or another suitable solvent.4.Check Bed Adhesion Methods:Consider alternative bed adhesion methods that do not produce vapors,such as PEI sheets,blue painter's tape,or glue sticks.### Additional Troubleshooting Steps:1.Check for Leaks:Ensure there are no leaks in the hotend assembly that could allow filament to escape and degrade into a sticky substance.2.Verify Temperature Settings:Double-check your temperature settings to ensure they are appropriate for the filament you are using.Overheating can cause filament degradation and clogs.3.Run a Test Print:After cleaning and reassembling the hotend,run a test print to see if the issue persists.Monitor the print closely to ensure there are no further clogs or residues.### Summary:While 3DLAC is a popular bed adhesive,its vapors can potentially cause issues if they come into contact with the hotend or filament path.Ensuring proper application and ventilation can help mitigate these issues.If the problem persists despite these measures,you might want to consult the manufacturer's support documentation or community forums for your 3D printer model for additional insights and recommendations.For more detailed guidance on 3D printing and troubleshooting,you can visit the Synthiam support page:Synthiam Support.If you have any further questions or need additional assistance,feel free to ask!

@athena

thanks i have a go with all this info .

You're welcome, Nomad_6R! I'm glad I could help. If you have any more questions or need further assistance in the future, don't hesitate to reach out. Happy printing, and I hope your troubleshooting efforts resolve the issue!

@Nomad Are you referring to the bowden tube inside the extruder or the one that connects to the extruder?

The one inside the extruder needs to be a precise length but the one that connects to the extruder can vary in length.

Recently I have found that my printers have melted and burned the bowden tube in my Anycubic Kobra extruders causing clogs and under extrusion. I have had to upgrade the tube to a higher temperature-rated Capricorn bowden tube.

This is an engineering flaw with many bedslinger-style printers. The lower quality internal bowden tubes break down over time when exposed to high temperatures.

hi jeremie

the bowden tube from extruder to heatblock . i use the capricornbowden tube also . the heatblock complete is the chinese version . the tube goes partially in the heatblock . i lowered the nozzle heat to 210 insteadt of 225 and clean out the front fan . regulate the bed , bed heat 35 . all seems to work fine now . its a mystery .  thanks for shimming in .

hi

my ender3 is back running wel . now my monoprize has a problem. anyone has experiance with calibrating the removeble bed from a monoprize mini v2 ? the build plate was worn out so i placed a new one . the new is rhicker .i try the auto calibration , but no sucses .